Perth to Geraldton

27 May 2014 

It is 10 days since we left Perth and we have arrived in Geraldton by a very circuitous route.   We turned left (i.e. south) on exiting the caravan park, and back-tracked 58kms to Pinjarra.   It was a very picturesque drive with lots of very affluent horse studs along the way.  We took the time to walk around Pinjarra, on the Murray River, and admire the beautiful old stone and brick buildings.    Alcoa has an alumina refinery not far from town, and there are two bauxite mines in close promity – not what one would expect to find in this area.

We then drove through another quaint village, Dwellingup, then a few k’s to the Lane Poole Conservation Area, also on the Murray River.   The WA Govt have recently opened a large, new campground for tents and vans, with excellent facilities.   There are also several day use areas along the river.

Welcome to Lane Poole

Native Wisteria

Spotless camp kitchen

Monday, 19 May we awoke to drizzle and heavy fog/cloud so decided to move on, northwards in the hope of finding some fine weather.  We found ourselves again headed for the Avon Valley, this time from a different direction through Boddington, Wandering, Pingelly, Brookton and back to York for our overnight stop.   We were able to wander through the back streets to see more of the wonderful old buildings.

York Catholic Church

York Post Office

 Tuesday, more heavy fog, but this cleared to a mostly sunny day as we drove north to Goomalling and Wongan Hills, where a stop was made for coffee and cake at the local café, then west to New Norcia.   We decided to set up in the campgrounds to stay 2 nights so we could do the town tour the next morning.   New Norcia was established by the Benedictine monks in the mid 1800’s, and there are still 9 monks residing there.    A late afternoon bike ride included a detour to the hotel to sample the “local” abbey ale – a very nice brew.

Wongan Hills Civic Hotel & Cafe

New Norcia

The town tour on Wednesday morning was very interesting, and included sitting in on the monks’ 15 min midday prayer session.   The museum was also worth the visit, with lots of local history, as well as the religious aspects.

Another heavy fog greeted us on Thursday but as we drove north towards Moora the sun broke through for another lovely day.    Today’s drive was on the Midlands Road, with wheatfields on either side of the road as far as they eye could see.    After recent rain the fields were green and the farmers were out ploughing.   It must have been a good season this year, if the huge mountains of covered grain were any indication.  This road is also popular in the wildflower season, and we passed a couple of wildflower “farms”.   Our overnight stop was at Three Springs.

Three Springs Grain Silos and Mural

Next morning after 50 k’s to Mingenew, we travelled west again to the Brand Highway and a short distance to Dongara-Port Denison, on the coast.    The wind is with us again.     The twin towns are separated by the Irwin River, and the harbour is home to a rock lobster fishing fleet.  The main street is lined with Moreton Bay and Port Jackson figs.   On Saturday and Sunday I did manage to get washing dry on the outside clotheslines.

Port Denison Harbour - Cray boats

 

Moreton Bay and Port Jackson Figs (and  bike rider)

 

 

Port Lincoln Parrot (aka Twenty-eight, I think)

Ellendale Pool

Tuesday morning dawned clear and sunny, with no wind, as we packed up to continue north to Geraldton, only 64k’s away.    As time was not an issue, we took a detour off the Brand Highway to go inland a little to look at Ellendale Pool, a campsite which had only recently been reopened after flooding.     We then had an easy drive to the Sunset Beach Caravan Park at Geraldton.   I hope to photograph a lovely sunset before we leave.   We will be here for 4 days, then to Kalbarri for a week.     Brian is hoping it won’t be long before his kayak gets wet again, and I wish the weather will soon be warm and sunny, with no wind.  

Perth

Sunday, 11 May we travelled north through Margaret River on the Bussell Highway.   We bypassed Bussellton and Bunbury, and were on a very busy freeway with lots of traffic and traffic lights.  It was Mother’s Day, so maybe more people were out and about.   Can’t remember the last time we encountered traffic lights – Esperance and Albany had lots of roundabouts to control traffic! We turned east off the highway to Pinjarra to refuel, then we were on the South Western Highway which ran right past the caravan park we had chosen at Armadale.  This is a city about 30kms from Perth centre via the Tonkin Highway, which is undergoing a major upgrade, but it was a fairly easy drive in to the city. Caravan parks closer to Perth do not cater for large vans and vehicles.

Monday morning we drove in to Ascot to organize the car service, then drove to North Freemantle and Cottesloe Beach.    I had wanted to visit  the wharf at Freemantle for fish and chips, but a storm came in so it was a quick dash to a café for lunch at Cottesloe.   Again, this would be a beautiful spot on a hot, sunny day.   As the rain eased we drove south to Freemantle, and passed lots of the beautiful, old stone and brick buildings.    Had the weather been better, we would have spent some time walking around the area.    

The weather was looking much better by Tuesday, so we headed off to the Avon Valley, east of Perth behind the Darling Range.    Our first stop was Toodyay on the Avon River, originally settled in 1831.  A visit to the local bakery provided sweet treats for our lunch stop at the next town on the tourist drive, Northam.

The Avon Descent canoe race, held every August, starts on the Avon R here.    It also has beautiful old buildings, but is a much larger place than Toodyay, and  is the centre for a large wheat growing area. 

Avon River at Toodyay

Old Post Office and Main Street of Toodyay

Northam - start of the Avon Descent

After lunch we headed south on the scenic route to York, also on the Avon River.   What a find!  My new, favourite place with well maintained old buildings, suspension bridge over the river, and  park which provides overnight RV parking with free electricity.   We stopped for a chat to a couple from Victoria who were camped there for the night.   It was 4pm by then, so we travelled south to the wheatbelt town of Beverley.   Gliders fly from here over the Avon Valley and there is an aeronautical museum.

York Town Hall

Church of England, York

Not much further and we arrived at the Brookton Highway which led us through part of  the Perth Hills to the highway just north of the caravan park.  What a wonderful day out!

After leaving the car for a service at Ascot on Wednesday, we caught the bus in to Perth City.   I was hoping to do a cruise to Freemantle and return, but after checking  at the Pier complex realised we would not return in time to collect the car.    There was a hop-on, hop-off tour bus ready to depart, so we decided to spend the day seeing the city sights this way.    We chose to stop at the Perth Mint first  and was in time to do a 1 hour tour there.  Unfortunately no photos allowed inside, but the displays were very good, including the $1 million gold coin, weighing 1 tonne.   It is now worth over $50 million - all owned by the WA Govt.  

Perth Mint

Avenue lined with Lemon Scented Gums

Perth CBD

Silver Princess Eucalypt

Another variety of bottlebrush

A species of cat's paw (I assume)

Our last couple of days in Perth has been for housekeeping and maintenance of the van and car, washing and restocking the pantry.   We are due at Cape Range National Park, near Exmouth, on 17^th June so need to plan an itinerary for the next 4 weeks.   We will decide in the morning whether we turn left or right as we exit the caravan park. 

Augusta

Wednesday, 7 May we left Pemberton on the Vasse Highway, past avocado, beef and dairy farms.   It was then a short stretch on the Brockman Highway, south on the Bussell Highway, a total distance today of around 160 kms to Augusta.   We chose the Turner Caravan Park (council owned) on the Blackwood River. The weather forecast for this evening was not looking good with a wet and windy front due, and this park had protection from the prevailing winds.     We went for an afternoon stroll into Augusta along the walkway next to the river.    The rain started just as we arrived back at the van and continued overnight but the expected high winds did not eventuate.

Green grass and peppermint trees

Blackwood River flows into Hardy Inlet

Bottlebrush

 We were surprised to see some sunshine on Thursday morning, but it was still windy.   We drove the few k’s out to Cape Leeuwin and back via the scenic, dirt road.   On our last trip we had gone in to the Lighthouse reserve, but due to the cold wind and lack of parking in the very small carpark there, we continued out of Augusta north on the Caves Road.   A quick drive in to Hamelin Bay (a favourite of Michelle and Ben), but it was raining so a walk on the beach was not possible.    On a fine, sunny day it would be a beautiful spot to spend some time.  

Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse

The Indian and Southern Oceans meet

On Friday we drove the northern section of the Caves Road, visiting Redgate Beach, Prevally (at the mouth of Margaret River), but there were no surfers today.     A very tasty lunch was then had at the Margaret River bakery.   We decided to spend another night at Augusta – Brian was lucky  the wind was in the right direction on Saturday morning for him to use his wave ski on Flinders Bay.  

Albany to Pemberton

We left Albany on 29/4 and travelled towards Denmark via the tourist drive.    This route was close to the coast, but not within view of the ocean, mainly beef and dairy properties.  The "up" place names are now very evident, as are the "brooks", not creeks. We made a detour in to Peaceful Bay, but it was quite windy, and the caravan park very rustic, so we decided to go on to the Rest Point Caravan Park at Walpole.   The park was not busy and there was plenty of space with no gum trees overhead dropping seed pods onto the roof of the van.    It was cold and overcast,  so we were both grateful for the onboard shower.

 

Visitor for breakfast - he was a good worm catcher

Next morning the sun was out so we decided to do the Valley of the Giants forest drive.   Spectacular karri and marri trees were on this route – karris shed their bark once a year and the colours of the tree trunks are fantastic. Marri trees are quite ordinary alongside these giants.  After the forest drive we travelled to Mount Frankland, through dairy and cattle properties.   This is more a great, big granite rock than a mountain, but the lookout on top was used for fire spotting.    It was a 500 metre bitumen track up to the 300 steps to the top.    The views made the climb worthwhile, and the exercise was a bonus.  We then continued on the dirt road to Fernhook Falls for a late lunch.    Most regions along the south coast have not had much rain since last year, so there was no water flowing at the Falls.  The countryside is still lush and green.

Beautiful forests of Karri and Marri

Some of the 300 steps -Mt Frankland

Views worth the climb

Even though Friday morning was cool and overcast, Brian drove 10kms to Nornalup to launch the kayak for a paddle up the Frankland River.   After lunch we drove to the Giant Tingle Tree.    Tingle trees only grow in the Walpole area – 6000 acres within 10kms of the coast.

 

The Giant Tingle Tree, Walpole

Saturday, 3 May we drove  53 kms to the Shannon National Park, and found a good, level site in the campground there.   After setting up, I drove the two one-way loops of the Great Forest Trees Drive – it was easy not having to worry about oncoming traffic!

Shannon National Park Campground

 It was not windy on Sunday morning, so we decided to drive 60kms to Windy Harbour.   We did not visit the Harbour on our last trip because it was very windy.    It is a settlement of over 200 well kept cottages – very narrow, dirt streets so we were glad we did not attempt to bring the van to the caravan park here.   There was a great, bitumen scenic drive out to Pt D’Entrecasteaux.   On the way back, we stopped at Northcliffe for a good lunch at the pub.

 

"Window" at Pt D'Entrecasteau

Beautiful autumn colours - Northcliffe

We were packed and ready to leave by 9.15 next morning, travelling 60kms on the South Western Highway, then 20kms on the Vasse Highway to Pemberton.   I was in “wren” heaven at the caravan park – fairy wrens all around, some even venturing close to the van steps.  After an early lunch we drove on the Karri Forest Explorer road.   I have always wanted to try marron, so tonight I was very indulgent and we had tea at the beautiful Pemberton Hotel.   Brian had roast lamb and I had salad, chips and about 200grams of marron, plus the meat I retrieved from the tiny claws.   The meat really needed the sauce that came with it, overall nothing to rave about, but I’m glad I tried it. 

Next day we drove the rest of the Explorer Drive, past the Bicentennial Tree.   Brian made it to the top this time – 75 metres.  Last trip he only climbed to the first platform at 25 metres.   The drive ran along the banks of the Warren River in places, but all through the area magnificent karris and marris.   We had a quick walk to the Cascades, where there was water flowing, and stopped at the Gloucester Tree near Pemberton.   This tree is only 53 metres tall, and is most popular with bus tours because it is so close to town.    We had our Parks Pass inspected for the first time on entry to the Gloucester National Park.

A long way down!

Swing Bridge over Beedulup Falls

The Cascades

Log bridge near the Cascades - used by timber trucks

We will continue our journey west to Augusta, then north to Perth for a week or so and then even further north to the warmer, sunnier weather (hopefully).